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Face
5 Beauty Rules to Break

Face:

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Forget the old beauty maxims and find your own style.

Rule: Don't wear lipstick without a lipliner
Reality: Most shades, especially creamy formulas, look more natural if you skip the liner. To help lipcolor go on neatly, New York City-based makeup artist Genevieve suggests that you apply it with a lip brush. (Use a lipliner when your lipstick is a very dark or super-bright shade: Deep hues have more pigment, which tends to wander, and liner creates a barrier.)

Rule: The apples of your cheeks are the only spot to apply blush
Reality: If you have a perfectly oval face shape, stick with the apples. For the rest of us, makeup pro Alyssa Evans for Nubest & Co. Salon, in Manhasset, New York, offers these strategies. Square face: Brush blusher just under the cheekbones. Round: Sweep blusher along cheekbones, up toward temples. Heart-shaped: Start at outer eye corners and glide toward temples.

Rule: You must match foundation to the skin on your jawline
Reality: Most of us have some redness or some discolored, blotchy areas. Testing foundation on the face could leave you with a shade that's too pink. To even out skin tone, match a shade to the skin on your neck, suggests Lea Siegel. One skin-flattering formula we love is Origins Nude and Improved Bare-face Makeup with SPF 15 Sunscreen ($15). Its soft-focus diffusers help your complexion glow in any light.

Rule: Don't tweeze above your eyebrows
Reality: Any stragglers above your brows can create a shadow, and as a result, the shape of your brows won't look as clean and defined. For mistakeproof grooming above the brow, New York-based makeup pro Lea Siegel suggests this trick: Brush brows into place, then go over them with a white makeup pencil. Strays above the whitened area can be tweezed without disrupting the line of your brows. Pluck one hair at a time, using a good pair of tweezers. One of our faves: Tweezerman Slant Tweezers ($18; to order, 888-647-7377).

Rule: Blue eyeshadow looks dated
Reality: Caking on bright turquoise shadow is a sure way to say you're stuck in the '80s. But cool silvery or smoky shades of blue imparts a fresh and modern look. The trick is to keep the rest of your makeup soft, advises Bobbi Brown -- no loud fuchsia lipstick! Try pairing a subtle blue shadow with a navy eyeliner. Some of spring's prettiest blues: Aveda Shadow plus Vitamins in Perception ($10; for stores, 800-328-0849) and Revlon Illuminance Creme Shadow in Moody Blues ($6.50). -- Carol Straley


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