
- From
The Cook's Bible:
How to Thicken a Sauce
- by Christopher Kimball
Continued
from the previous page...
The Science of Cooking
Why do flour and cornstarch
thicken sauces?
You've probably noticed that
when stirred into water at room temperature, neither flour nor
cornstarch thicken. They just turn into a loose paste. What is
missing is the application of heat, which encourages the bonding
of starch and water molecules. (Both flour and cornstarch are
mostly starch, although flour contains many other ingredients
such as proteins.) The starch granules then start to enlarge
(think of blowing up a beach ball), trapping water as they grow.
Finally, at temperatures over 150 degrees and up to a point just
below boiling, the rigid structure of the granules breaks up,
creating a spidery web of bonded starch and water molecules.
This mesh prevents the free movement of water molecules and results
in a thick sauce. You probably have also noticed that at this
point, the sauce starts to become clearer. That is because the
starch molecules are no longer packed tightly together--they
are in a looser meshwork after heating--and therefore light is
less likely to be deflected. At temperatures above 200 degrees,
however, the large starch granules start to shrink in size, leaking
starch molecules into the sauce. As these swollen granules deflate,
the sauce becomes thinner.
Although flour is the traditional
thickening agent in French cooking, cornstarch is a more powerful
thickener because it is a purer form of starch. It will also
create a clearer, shinier sauce. The French clarified their sauces
through hours of slow cooking, skimming off the protein as the
sauce simmered, and turning them into perfectly clear, shiny
liquids, which keep their shine even with the addition of flour.
Given the realities of home cooking, this makes no sense and,
therefore, cornstarch is preferable.
The White Sauce
The most basic sauce is based
on a roux, which is equal volumes of butter and flour whisked
together in a saucepan over heat in order to ameliorate the flavor
of the flour and to remove lumps. Click
to continue...
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