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Some say this famous San Francisco specialty was devised by a San Francisco chef as a variation on the Italian frittata. Others insist it was created as an after-hours snack by dance-band musicians of the 1920's. A third theory attributes the dish to miners who frequented the city's riotous Barbary Coast district in the 1850's. Whatever its origin may be, this hearty mixture of beef, onions, spinach and eggs makes a satisfying meal any time of the day or night.

Joe's Special

2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

2 pounds lean ground beef

2 medium onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon dry oregano

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry; or 1/2 pound fresh spinach, rinsed, stems removed, and leaves chopped (about 4 cups)

4 to 6 large eggs, lightly beaten

1. Heat oil in a wide frying pan over high heat. Crumble in beef and cook, stirring often, until browned. Drain excess fat.
2. Add onions, garlic and mushrooms; reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir in salt, nutmeg, pepper, oregano and spinach; cook for about 5 more minutes. Add eggs. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, just until eggs are softly set.

Makes 6 servings.

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