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It's best to use small hubbards, butternut, or any of those dark green skinned squash varieties like Honey Delight or Kabocha to make this soup. If you opt for the pumpkin variation make sure you choose a pumpkin intended for cooking rather than carving a jack-o-lantern. Except for butternut squash, most winter squashes are difficult to peel, so halve and bake them first.

Pumpkin or Winter Squash Soup with Fried Sage Leaves

2 1/2 to 3 pounds winter squash or pumpkin
1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra for squash
6 garlic cloves, unpeeled
12 fresh, whole sage leaves, plus 2 tablespoons chopped sage
2 yellow onions, finely chopped
Chopped leaves from 4 thyme sprigs or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 quarts water or chicken stock
1/2 cup fontina, pecorino, or ricotta salata, diced into small cubes

1. Preheat oven to 375*F (190*C). Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds. Brush the surfaces with oil, stuff the cavities with the garlic, and place them cut sides down on a baking sheet. Bake until tender when pressed with a finger, about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile in a small skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of oil until nearly smoking, then drop in the whole sage leaves and fry until speckled and dark, about 1 minute. Set the leaves aside on a paper towel and transfer the oil to a wide soup pot. Add the onions, chopped sage, thyme, and parsley and cook over medium heat until the onions have begun to brown around the edges, 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Scoop the squash flesh into the pot along with any juices that have accumulated in the pan. Peel the garlic and add it to the pot along with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and the water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes. If the soup becomes too thick, simply add more water to thin it out. Taste for salt.
4. Depending on the type of squash you've used, the soup will be smooth or rough. Puree or pass it through a food mill if you want a more refined soup. Ladle it into bowls and distribute the cheese over the top. Garnish each bowl with the fried sage leaves, add pepper and serve.

Serves 4 to 6.